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Introducing the car…

Tiger Super Six with a 2.0L Zetec

I bought my Tiger at the end of August 2019. The car didn’t come with a wealth of history because it had a build blog on PistonHeads.com. I haven’t yet been able to find this blog (I hope I do!) but I will share what I discover about the car as I go.

Here’s the basics. The car was first registered in 2003 and initially had a pinto engine. The pinto let go at a track (the best ending for an engine) and a 2.0L Ford Zetec engine was added as a replacement. The Zetec has had twin Weber carburettors and a modified sump has been fitted. This was done three or four years ago. Since then the car has only done 1,300 miles. I suspect that there is an upgraded head and something has been done with the cams as well but I’m not sure. Best estimation of horsepower is 150 – 155 bhp.

The car look like it has been setup as a track toy. It has an aeroscreen rather than a windshield and no attempt to add comfort items such as a heater (not needed with engine so close to your feet!).

There’s a five speed gear box with a really nice short-shift action, racing/sports clutch and fancy racing cluster (RX-2N).

Block: 2.0L Zetec – Engine Code EDDC (Standard 135PS @6000, 180Nm @4000), Phase 3, Manufactured 1998-2004 for Focus 2.0L, Raceline baffled sump.

Intake: Twin Weber 45DCOE Carburettor

Fuel pump: Inline Facet electronic fuel pump

Cooling: Was a copper radiator with a leak (!), now custom made aluminium radiator by Custom made Rads

Brakes (Front): Was: VW Golf Mk2 – ATE 48mm (?) diameter single piston discs, now replaced with Tiger branded Hi-Spec four piston, fixed brake callipers with EPC green stuff brake pads.

Suspension (Front): Double wishbone with Protech 400 series shock absorbers and 8”, 2.25” ID – 275lb springs

Suspension (Rear): Protech with 8”, 2.25” ID – 180lb springs

Electrics!!

So I popped down to the garage this morning and whilst I was there I replaced the spade connector I accidently pulled off last weekend and ‘finished’ replacing the hazard switch. Here’s the situation update:

  • Right hand side indicators still not flashing when hazard switch engaged.
  • Left hand indicators now not flashing when indicator switch engaged but are when hazard switch on.
  • Fuel pump not turning on when fuel pump switch on.

What a mess… this is my opportunity to learn a little more about how to use a multimeter and to figure exactly how the car is wired so that I can get this all working back how it should do. Good job that I enjoy this process.

I’ve picked up my punches and cutting oil from the garage so at least I can finish fabricating the plate that will hold the switches once I figure out the connections!

Some light fabrication

A little bit of light fabrication this morning to make an aluminium template panel to cover the hole in the dash and hold the buttons. If I like it, I’ll keep it… if not I’ll use the carbon fibre panel I made earlier.

I masked off the aluminium’s sheet, used the in snips to cut out the shape and then a hammer and my vice (as an anvil!) to tidy the edges up.

To add the holes I’ll need some cutting oil. This is down at the garage at the moment. It’s a bit chilly but I might pop down to the garage later. If I do this then I’ll be able to replace the spade connector I pulled off last weekend and test the new hazard switch… we’ll see!

Winter plans (continued)

So I’m going to change how I do the blog a bit… I’m not keeping on top of writing up on the pages so I’m going to post a little more. When I’ve completed a job I’ll pull all of the posts together into a page for posterities sake.

I was down at the garage last night removing the panel I cut out and adding in the new hazard switch. Typical me, I was rushing a little at the end (it was cold and dark!) and pulled off one of the spade connectors. With none spare I couldn’t check to see if the new switch had fixed the problem and indeed if I’d connected everything together again properly!

As you can see it was pretty dark by the time I finished. I need to sort out some proper lighting.

With the panel back at home it’s a job for a rainy day to do the fabrication.

The next big job is lined up and ready to go. I’m moving the from a carb setup to ITBs! This was my Christmas present (and next Christmas, and the one after!). New ECU, high pressure fuel system, and some ITBs supplied by DanST Engineering.

A bit intimidated by this but I’ll keep you updated!

Winter Plans

Work has been so busy that the working on the car has had to, reluctantly, wait. Anyway, the New Year should be a little quieter and I’ve already started working on a few bits and pieces.

At the last MOT the hazard lights weren’t working. I’m 95% sure that it’s an issue with the switch. Access to the back of the dashboard is limited so the plan is to cut out the section of the dash that holds the buttons, make a carbon fibre insert, move all the buttons over and in the process change out the hazard switch. I’ve already made the carbon fibre sheet and cut out the section of the dash. I hit a bit of a hurdle with the removing the switch, but I’ll leave that for the write up on the work page. A few random picture below.

I didn’t quite get the first layer of carbon fibre to sit how I would have liked… but it has a certain homemade charm about it which I like!

Progress, progress, progress

It’s been a really productive few days helped by some unseasonably warm weather (back to cold now!) and the easing of the lockdown restrictions meaning I’m comfortable in visiting the garage.

The carbs are now back on the car with the new fuel lines cut to size.

Somehow I managed to lose a top cover bolt (you can see it missing on the top carb in the righthand image above… it’s on the righthand side of the new, blue fuel line). The replacement bolt arrived today.

I have bought a flow meter to measure the air intake of each trumpet so that I can balance the carbs and have a pretty detailed guide to follow on setting the idle speed and mixture. One of the helpful gents from the Farnborough District Motor Club is also going to look over my work when I’ve done it.

I can’t start her up through until I’ve added the missing bolt (easy) and sorted out the flexible connections at the rear of the car. There’s three things I want to do at the back and they can all be seen in this picture:

Just to help locate, this imagine is taken just forward of the fuel tank and inside of the near side rear wheel and it shows the fuel pump.

I want to replace the black fuel line (which on this picture looks a little worse for wear), make sure that the fuel pump is properly secured (there are some holes already drilled which might take a bolt or I’ll fashion a bracket), and finally you can just see the spade connectors on the positive wire. The mechanic I took the car to for its initial inspection was a little unhappy with these. He was worried if they came lose when they might create a source of ignition near the fuel tank. I’m going to add some heat shrink tube over the connectors to help ensure they don’t come apart accidently.

Once I’ve done this bit of work I can fire her up and get on with the tuning.

When working on the carbs I’ve also replaced the high density foam on top of the bodywork which supports the hood.

You can see in the picture above that it was lifting away and was really unsightly. IT took a bit if elbow grease to get all of the adhesive off but now looks much better (compare in the pictures above)!

I did discover this though under the foam:

There’s evidence of a botched fix already. It’s nothing too problematic as it’s only in the bodywork. I think I’ll stablise it with some expanding foam and then fix it after this year’s driving season.

The eagle eyed will also spot that the exhaust wrap is gone… it was well past its best and starting to disintegrate. Once I’ve got the engine fired up and running again the exhaust manifold is coming off and I’ve already got the new (black) wrap ready to go on.

I’ve also wanted to deal with a few cosmetic and ‘ease of living’ issues. I’ve replaced the indicators with new LED units. In the process I’ve extended the length of the wires to make to the nose cone easier to get on and off (hopefully it will be more on than off over the summer!).

the number plate has constantly been threatening to fall off! Quite frustrating so I’ve fabricated (a bold word!) a new bracket out of aluminum that will allow me to bolt and stick the plate.

Just waiting for a little warm weather so that I can spray it black before mounting it on the nose cone.

I have some other bits and pieces on order too… a new rear view mirror, some gel coat repair kits and I have just booked into a dyno in mid-May!

Distracting body(work)

18/03/2021: Partly as a distraction from the carbs (which is taking me far too long) I couldn’t help but revisit the improvements I was making to the nose cone. The foam insert that the hood rests on was pretty tatty and falling away. I’ve bought new and have cut new pieces. It also turned out that after sanding to removed the surface scratches the wax was covering quite a dull surface. After further investigation I’ve bought some of this stuff:

It’s great! Using a polishing bonnet with a medium sponge on the drill, and after taking some time going over, the lustre was returned to the finish!

I’m now planning to respray the mesh black along with the brackets for the number plate. I’ll update with some pictures when I’m done.

Head scratcher….

So this is a puzzling one… I’ve fully assembled both carbs. The fuel pump is sat considerably lower on the carb with the new parts.

I’ve compared the fuel pumps and they are identical. The difference in height can only come from the alignment of the cam. So it’s either the shape of the cam arm (they looked the same when offering the parts to each other) or the angle of the cam arm on the spindle.

The spindle came pre-drilled, as did one side of the cam. So the cam with the lower pump is at the stock alignment. I wonder if it’s a trick for those drilling there own spindle to make the fuel pump action more aggressive by drilling at a slight angle?

I suppose it’s possible there is such a thing as a performance cam. Bit of investigation required!

Back on track…

Yesterday afternoon I very carefully cut the new split pin down to size, bevelled the end and shaped it a little with the pliers. With plenty of WD-40, trial alignment and I’ll admit holding of breath (!) I gently tapped it into it’s new home with success! Such a relief!

The actuating cam seems to be working well and I’ve almost fully reassembled the rest of the carb. It’s been a bit of a journey, and that’s without trying to put them back on the car and tune them.

I’m working a bit next weekend but I should have time to finish the reassemble and remount them next weekend… fingers crossed!

Oops…

Things were going so well with the carb refurb and then I made a series of really silly and compounding mistakes. One carb is fully assembled and when working on the second, without realising it, I put the spindle in 180 degrees out from how it should have been installed. Then when attaching the fuel pump actuating cam, which requires knocking a split pin through the cam and spindle, this jammed.

Rather that take a breath, reflect and make a sensible decision, I departed on an a course of action which has turned out costly. The split pin jammed with about 3mm protruding (I’m not surprised now as I don’t think it would have every gone through with the orientation of the spindle incorrect). This was fouling on the inspection cover plate and prevented reassemble the carb. At this point, I didn’t think the issue with the orientation of the spindle was any big deal as I couldn’t visualise how it was causing the carb to not function properly. So, rather than be sensible, I ground off the excess split pin so it was flush with the collar of the actuating cam allowing me to close the inspection plate and finish the reassemble.

Turns out this was a silly thing to do. With the spindle 180 degree out, the arm of the actuating cam was not lifting the fuel pump high enough for it to work properly. I noticed the difference in the height of the fuel pump when I had the two reassembled carbs side-by-side. The job of this pump is to literally spray fuel each time the accelerator pedal is pressed, this helps the engine get going and create the Venturi effect to draw in the rest of the fuel. Without the pump working fully there would be less fuel reaching the engine on initial acceleration and I suspect that this would serious impact performance.

The spindle had to come out again but this can’t happen without the actuating cam coming off and this was firmly attached by a jammed split pin! The solution was always going to be destructive! I tried drilling out the split pin using a cobalt drill bit but that metal was about as tough as any I’ve come across. When this failed, I then tried to cut away at the collar and leave the spindle in tact. This is how well this approach worked:

I’m afraid it didn’t at all! I ended up having to cut all the way through the collar and spindle. Pay day tomorrow and almost £100 of car parts with VAT and delivery (and I suspect an import charge too). Stupid mistake to make, but at least I haven’t done anything to the carb itself. There was always a chance I would slip when cutting… very relieved that didn’t happen!

I suspect it will be a few weeks before the parts arrive. Hopefully I can get everything back together and on the car with a basic tune. I’ve identified a local(ish) garage that can tune Webers using a rolling road. Would be good to get a horsepower number as well. Something to look forward to as this episode hasn’t been my finest!