Introducing the car…

Tiger Super Six with a 2.0L Zetec

I bought my Tiger at the end of August 2019. The car didn’t come with a wealth of history because it had a build blog on PistonHeads.com. I haven’t yet been able to find this blog (I hope I do!) but I will share what I discover about the car as I go.

Here’s the basics. The car was first registered in 2003 and initially had a pinto engine. The pinto let go at a track (the best ending for an engine) and a 2.0L Ford Zetec engine was added as a replacement. The Zetec has had twin Weber carburettors and a modified sump has been fitted. This was done three or four years ago. Since then the car has only done 1,300 miles. I suspect that there is an upgraded head and something has been done with the cams as well but I’m not sure. Best estimation of horsepower is 150 – 150 bhp.

The car look like it has been setup as a track toy. It has an aeroscreen rather than a windshield and no attempt to add comfort items such as a heater (not needed with engine so close to your feet!).

There’s a five speed gear box with a really nice short-shift action, racing/sports clutch and fancy racing cluster.

Block: 2.0L Zetec – Engine Code EDDC (Standard 135PS @6000, 180Nm @4000), Phase 3, Manufactured 1998-2004 for Focus 2.0L

Intake: Twin Weber 45DCOE Carburettor

Fuel pump: Inline Facet electronic fuel pump

Cooling: Custom made aluminium radiator by Custom made Rads

Brakes (Front): VW Golf Mk2 – ATE 48mm (?) diameter single piston discs

Suspension (Front): Double wishbone with Protech 400 series shock absorbers and 8”, 2.25” ID – 275lb springs

Suspension (Rear): Protech with 8”, 2.25” ID – 180lb springs

Test fitted…

So this shouldn’t have taken me the four hours that it did! Including a trip to pick up some new hex sockets. However, here we are:

I’m much clearer on how it all goes together and the bonus is that Tiger have already modified the brake pads to fit.

None of the old brake assembly is reused. I was quite confused at one point thinking I was going to have figment issues but the s when I believe the new calliper fixed to the old calliper bracket. It doesn’t.

I’ll update the braking bad page with a bit more detail of the process and how I ended up taking more of the car than I anticipated!

Test fitting…

So the plan today is to head down to the garage, remove the old brake callipers and test fit the new Tiger branded, 4 pot, fixed brake callipers. I’ve read the instructions a number of times and I have to be honest they don’t make much sense to me! I suspect I’ll be able to figure it out with the car in front of me.

Here’s what is getting fitted:

There’s a couple of things making me a little nervous. First, these are fixed brake callipers and therefore there is no calliper guide pin and they need to be mounted centrally to the disc. I don’t have the tools for measure this properly. Second, the instructions talk about “removing some metal and pad” to make the pad fit. I don’t have an angle grinder! I do have a file but this won’t be practical unless it is a very small amount of material.

Other than that I think it should be quite straight forward. Remove the old disc and attach the new. Then, using the mounting plate, attach the new callipers to the calliper bracket. I can change the alignment relative to the disc by using the washers (all the hardware is provided by Tiger). Once this is mocked up I’ll add the brake pads.

The brake pads are EPC green stuff. I’ll be interested to feel the different in performance. I was initially tempted to buy EPC yellow stuff but the feedback on the forums is that green stuff is plenty sufficient and yellow is probably a step too far with such a light car.

I don’t plan on fully removing the old callipers today. I’ll try and cable tie them out of the way somewhere as I don’t want to remove the brake line yet. I’m leaving that until next weekend. A couple of reasons for this. First, I’m not sure what type of brake fluid is in the car at the moment. I’m going to pull a drop out of the reservoir and see if it is miscible with water (DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are miscible and DOT 5 isn’t). Secondly, I am a Warden at a Hall of Residence and I’m on call this weekend. I don’t want to get called out to help a student when I’m in the middle of any activity involving fluids! Most call outs come in the evening or night time but better safe than sorry!

Once I’ve test fit the new parts I’m going to strip the whole lot back down again and remove the calliper bracket too. I don’t yet have the silicone based grease (it’s on its way) to use as an antiseize between the disc and hub and between the disc and wheel so I can’t do the final fit. It took me forever and a day to research what I should be using here. I don’t want any rust welding going on. It seems most UK mechanics go with copper grease. I’ve decided to go with a silicone-based high heat grease (Permatex 24129 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant).

The current paint on the calliper bracket is as bad as the paint on the calliper:

I’m going to take it all back down to bare metal and spray with a heat resistance matt black paint. I’m going to paint the mounting/conversion plate supplied by Tiger too. I should be able to get that done today.

I’m planning to make a bit of a project out of reconditioning the old callipers. I’m interested to see how it all works and I suspect there is some value in them. They are either Golf Mk1 Gti or Golf Mk 2. Whichever, these parts are not that easy to get hold of.

First upgrade…

So the post man has been and this is what he left:

It’s the 4 pot, Tiger-branded, Hi Spec front brake upgrade kit! Came really well packed from Tiger with lots of instructions.

I’ll probably strip the old brakes this weekend but leave the callipers connected to the brake lines. I’ll test this new stuff and then fully install it next weekend.

Feels great to be upgrading rather than fixing 🙂

Shaking her down

The weather was nice so we took the opportunity to go out for a shake down run.

It was a simple enough job now to get everything back on the car (although you wouldn’t tell from my face!):

I had some help getting the wheels back on:

We got her filled up with fuel:

We drove for 5 minutes and then I stopped to check everything looked okay which it did. She goes, turns and stops with nothing falling off! the new suspension feels great! Like an idiot I didn’t hit record properly on the GoPro. My wife did take a view iPhone videos that show how much fun we were having 🙂

Two jobs finished and another close…

I was down at the garage again today. The weather has really turned and it was pretty chilly! I managed to get two jobs finished up. One small and one bigger.

I replaced the dodgy hose clip identified in the last post:

A simple job but one that left undone could have consequences. I should check all of the other hose clips too. If one has reached the end of it serviceable live then other might be close.

The bigger job was the suspension. After a bit of a fight to get the spring back onto the shocks everything is back on the car and I can tick this job off. Hoping to get out for a shake down run tomorrow. I doubt the paint on the spraying I’m doing will be dry enough though.

That’s a seamless link into the job I’ve moved on. Last weekend I got the rust cleaned off the front most cross member and two coats of primer down. Today I got the first top coat down. The weather is so cold I’m going to give it overnight to dry.

A bit frustratingly I was hoping to take off, or at least explore, the upper ball joint that needs replacing. However, the one bolt that holds the bottom in (and is orientated horizontally) will not budge. I’ve hit it, heated it and lubricated it to no avail! I think this will be one for a proper mechanic!

(I was so busy today I forgot to take pictures! I’ll update the post tomorrow with some eye candy…)

Some exploration…

So buying a kit car that has little build history is like doing automotive archaeology. I’m slowly working my way through the car from front to back figuring out what’s in there, fixing any issues and upgrading where I can afford! O… and I’m learning a lot too!

I spent more than a couple of hours down at the garage this morning after the disappointment of the rugby (Rugby Union World Cup defeat to SA). I posted the front shocks off yesterday to be serviced and repaired so I’m really looking for jobs to entertain myself that don’t cost too much and don’t stop me driving the car (when I get the shocks back on I’ll want to shake the car down to make sure it’s all back together properly).

I decided to tackle some of the surface rust on the chassis but this turned out to take less time than I expected so I went poking about the rear end of the car.

I removed the top rear panel:

This allowed me to see the rear end of the car easily:

It’s my first poke around at the back so I took my time to identify what I could.

I spotted a series of numbers on the left rear spring. I did grab a picture of these but it seems to have corrupted. I’ll check again tomorrow but I seem to recall they were 8 inch, 2.25 ID and 180lb. The 180lb seems a little soft so I’ll check this and might want to change them.

I also manages to identify the brand of fuel sender and the inline fuel pump:

Looking at the image on the right when I head back to the garage tomorrow I’ll want to ensure that fuel pump is secure.

I got a good look at the leak on the differential. This was identified when I had the car checked over by a mechanic and is to be expected. I suspect the diff is over 30 years old:

It looks worse than it is. Given this bit of the car certainly hasn’t been cleaned in the last 1,500 miles it really is only a small amount of oil. I’ll just need to keep an eye on the oil levels. At some point it might be a good idea to get the whole think reconditioned. I understand this would be one of the parts that would be hard to source if I had a failure.

Finally I was running the engine up to temperature to get some oil circulating around it when I noticed that one of the hose clips is broken. A small part, but one that might lead to a problem if not replaced. You can see it bouncing around in this clip (I’m not sure why there is no sound!):

And here is a picture:

Back on the road

I’ve been a little quiet because I’ve been out of the country with work and enjoying the car. We’ve had a couple of dry(ish) weekends so I’ve been out and about. The camera is mounted and I grabbed video… it’s mainly me stuck in traffic as the battery ran out as I got some open roads!! Anyway, need to work on sorting out the audio as it is terrible.

Job done: Radiator

The new radiator is in and plumbed up. I’ve taken her out for a quick shake down and everything seems fine. Over the winter I want to add some type of rubber stop at the bottom of the radiator to stop it fouling on the chassis (being uber cautious!) and check to make sure the thermostat is working properly (the car might even be running a little cold!) but for now I’m happy to say this job is done. Here’s a little montage of picture of you car read the story here.

Cooling almost sorted

Learned a lot over the last week. If you’ve been reading the updates on the hot headed page then you’ll know after I installed the radiator and filled the coolant system the car wouldn’t start. It turned over but wouldn’t fire. Turns out the Koso Digital gauge I have has two resistance settings for the fuel display neither of which match my fuel tank/sensor setup. I now know that 1/2 a tank on the display is empty… I must have only just got home when driving the car last time!!

Anyway, she’s running again now:

A little bit of cleaning and another job…

Hopefully the radiator is arriving tomorrow so I can get another job ticked off and car taken out for a little bit of a shake down. I haven’t driven it since replacing the exhaust mounts and I don’t want to do too much without making sure it is all okay.

I popped down to the garage today to do a little bit more cleaning. It’s not the easiest since I don’t have water at the garage. A spray bottle with some detergent and a basin of clean water with a sponge. Seems to have done the trick though.

The nose cone and the bonnet were both pretty mucky after the motorway trip back and the coolant league. They look much better now.

When cleaning the nose cone though I spotted that the indicator was held together with insulation tape. Not ideal! I think I have found the same indicator and they aren’t expensive so I’ll replace them next week. I’ve added another job to the list here.

Finally, I mounted the GoPro style camera that my brother has lent me. Some cable tie innovation was needed (!) but I don’t think it is going anywhere. This is great because I should be able to put some video of the shake down trip up with a week or so.